The autobiography of Reinhold Messner, the first mountaineer to have climbed Everest without oxygen (along with Habeler, in 1978), and also the first to have climbed Everest solo and without oxygen (1980), and the first man to have climbed all fourteen 8000-m peaks
About Messner (from Wikipedia):
Reinhold Andreas Messner (born 17 September 1944) is an Italian mountaineer, explorer, and author. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first climber to ascend all fourteen peaks over 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) above sea level. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds. He also crossed the Gobi Desert alone. Messner has published more than 80 books (only a quarter of which have been translated into English) about his experiences as a climber and explorer. In 2018, he received jointly with Krzysztof Wielicki the Princess of Asturias Award in the category of Sport.